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<  XTM X-Factor Forum  ~  TIPS and MODS only please!

VIPER
Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2004 3:15 pm Reply with quote
R/C Guru R/C Guru
Joined: 12 Mar 2003 Posts: 3353 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Tips, Air Filter Maintenance

Wash with dish soap and warm water until it is clean by squeesing the dish soap water through it until it is clean.

Rinse under a running tap. Leave off to dry for the following day or squeese the water out further between paper towels and treat with air filter oil for immediate use.


Please Do Not Reply! This Is A TIPS Thread Only.

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VIPER
Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2004 5:27 pm Reply with quote
R/C Guru R/C Guru
Joined: 12 Mar 2003 Posts: 3353 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Tips, Diff/Pinion Shimming and Swing Shaft Grub Screws

Note: Remove parts systematically and in groups. Lay them out on a table as Left, Center, and Right parts and in descending order. This way, when you start to put things together you will start from the bottom up until there are no more parts.

The Break Down
-Remove Axle Assembly from the truck. Have the Axle’s Pinion Shaft to point to your face.
-Remove the top and bottom screws of the Axle Hubs, work it out and let it hang.
-Remove the 4 Servo Carrier screws and detach the whole assembly away from the Axle.
-Remove the Left and Right Link Rod Mounts and set aside.
-Remove all the screws that hold the Axle/Diff Housing together except for the 2 bottom screws on the Diff Housing. You do not need to remove these screws.
-Pop off the Left, Center, and Right top pieces of the Axle/Diff Housing.
-Once opened, you will see the Differential and Swing Shafts with the Ring Gear to the left (this is how it should look when you are about to close it up).
-Remove the Swing Shaft and Diff Assembly as a unit. Wipe any grease off this assembly.
-Loosen all Grub Screws on the Couplers to separate the Swing Shafts from the Diff and lay them out in groups.
-Grab the Diff, with the Ring Gear towards the left see if there are 2 Brass Shims on the Output shaft sandwich by a bearing.
- If you see 2 shims on the left output shaft of the differential then it was done for you.
If not you will have to do this yourself later before closing things up.

The Clean Up
-Remove the 4 screws that hold the Ring Gear and Diff Cups together. Set those aside. Be careful in separating the Diff Cups apart, as you do not want the spider gears to drop out.
-Once the Cups are apart. Remove the O-ring and carefully remove the 4 Spider Gears out and lay them on the table. Remember how you pulled them out, as it should go in the same way.
-Leave the Output Shafts in place. Gather the 4 Spider Gear Pins and set them back into the Ring Gear Cup and proceed to clean off the stock grease off the Cups and Spider Gears.
-Re-pack both Diff Cups with a High Grade Synthetic Automotive Bearing Grease. Do not fill the screw holes with grease.
-Set the Spider Gears back onto the pins of the Ring Gear Cup. Do not worry about the excess grease.
-Set both Diff Cups back to mate. You will need to rotate an Output Shaft to get the Cups to mate properly. You may now clean off the excess grease. Install the O-ring back between the cups.
-Remove any grease from the screw holes with twisted paper towels until all 4 holes are clean. Wipe off the screws and Ring Gear too.
-Set the Ring Gear onto the Ring Gear Cup. Long screws go into the end holes L s/s L.
-Put 2 Brass Shims maximum onto the Output Shaft on the Ring Gear side and Slide the Output Shaft Bearings on each end and set aside.
-Remove the Pinion Gear from the Pinion Housing. You should find 2 brass shims on it. These shims are wafer thin and sometimes sticks together too good. Add a 3rd shim to make a maximum of 3 on it, grease and set aside.
-Proceed to separate the Couplers from the Swing Shafts and clean each part to be free of grease. Do the same for the Grub Screws on the Couplers.
-Set a Coupler onto a Swing Shaft and line up the Grub Hole of the Coupler to the flat spot of the Swing Shaft. Apply a drop of RED Loctite into the Grub Hole and on the Grub Screw and secure together. Do the Same for the other Swing Shaft.
-Set a Swing Shaft with a Coupler onto the Output Shaft of the Differential and RED Loctite as per above. Repeat procedure for the other Swing Shaft.

The Re-assembly
-Apply a liberal amount of High Grade Synthetic Automotive Bearing Grease on each side of the Diff being careful not to get grease beyond the Output Shaft Bearings. Do the same for the Ring Gear.
-Set the whole assembly on to the Lower Axle/Diff Housing with the Ring Gear towards the Left.
-Set the Pinion Gear Housing into place over the Diff and check one more time that with Pinion Gear Shaft pointing to your face that that Ring Gear is on the left side.
Set both Upper Axle Housing into place and proceed to secure with the proper screws.
-Re-assemble units as previously taken apart.
-Repeat procedures for the other Axle.


Please Do Not Reply! This Is A TIPS Thread Only.

_________________
I’m on the 8th year of my 2nd childhood and I REFUSE TO GROW-UP!
VIPER’s RIDES
http://globalservices.globalhobby.com/globalforum/viewtopic.php?p=15362#15362
http://www.offroadrc.ca/showthread.php?t=9040
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Guest
Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2004 5:52 pm Reply with quote
VIPER wrote:
Tips, Air Filter Maintenance

Wash with dish soap and warm water until it is clean by squeesing the dish soap water through it until it is clean.

Rinse under a running tap. Leave off to dry for the following day or squeese the water out further between paper towels and treat with air filter oil for immediate use.


Please Do Not Reply! This Is A TIPS Thread Only.


i found that wd-40 will shoot all of hte dirty after run oil out of your filter then you can rinse out hte wd-40 and dry it and re oil it. just a little addition.
Guest
Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2004 9:31 am Reply with quote
Good bearing lubricants...

While I had my transmission apart I decided to clean and lube the bearings. I washed them out with brake cleaner and soaked them in Winzer polylube 250 which is similar to Wurth HHS 2000, it is a teflon based synthetic lubricant that is carried by a solvent which wicks it into tight places and then evaporates leaving the tacky lubricant behind. It's good for -30'f to 530'f and has great adhesion so it won't get spun out. It is a bit thicker than lightweight oil but I think lubricates better, and it doesn't evaporate.

Nick.
VIPER
Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2004 8:10 pm Reply with quote
R/C Guru R/C Guru
Joined: 12 Mar 2003 Posts: 3353 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Tips, End of day's run

Get in the habit of running your fuel out of your tank and engine when planning to pack it up for the day.

It will save you from gummed up tank, fuel line, engine, and 1 way bearing.


Please Do Not Reply! This Is A TIPS Thread Only.

_________________
I’m on the 8th year of my 2nd childhood and I REFUSE TO GROW-UP!
VIPER’s RIDES
http://globalservices.globalhobby.com/globalforum/viewtopic.php?p=15362#15362
http://www.offroadrc.ca/showthread.php?t=9040
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Guest
Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2004 11:02 pm Reply with quote
An affordable way to keep that antenna under the body.

Items required:

1. New or used antenna tube.
2. New piece of fuel line (color optional).
3. 4-6 small zipties.

How to:

1. Remove old antenna tube from antenna wire.
2. Cut a piece of antenna tube 1" long.
4. Cut a piece of fuel line 1 1/2" shorter than the length of antenna wire.
3. Thread antenna wire through the 1" piece of antenna tube.
4. Insert antenna tube into hole provided in the top of radio box cover.
5. Thread antenna wire through fuel line.
6. Once there's a 1/2" of antenna wire sticking out the end of the fuel
line slip fuel line over the 1" piece of antenna tube.

7. Double the piece of antenna wire hanging out of the fuel line and
slide it back inside.

8. Route fuel line/antenna to taste and ziptie in place.

Note:This mod is intended for those who want to conceal their antenna and are not concerned with losing some of their transmitting range. After applying this mod and before operating your vehicle, test it's range.

This a Tips/Mod only post. Please do not reply.



Guest
Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2004 2:22 pm Reply with quote
post edited.
binaryterror
Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2004 8:21 pm Reply with quote
Mr Negative Joined: 25 Mar 2003 Posts: 12873 Location: RC Pro Michigan State Series
Tip: Easy on the hands pull start.

Source: SPAM DON'T REPLY

The rope over the T handle on the pull start trick, get a piece of rope, put a loop in it, tie the zip tie around the rope to slide down to the T on the pull start, on the other end of the rope make a knot to pull with or wrap it around your hand and pull.






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Guest
Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:11 pm Reply with quote
fixing your pullstart's coil if it broke

1. heat up coil till it turns fire red on stove
this makes it soft, so you can bend it w/o breaking it
2. bend it to desired position
i beant it to look like the angle piece that fell off
3. put in fire again
4. quickly dip in a cup of cold water
this makes it hard again

tighten up coil
put it back togerther.. good as new

save 25$ on a new pullstart this way.
stumpy0825
Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2004 11:27 am Reply with quote
R/C Addict R/C Addict
Joined: 22 Apr 2003 Posts: 824 Location: Indiana
Tip: Waterproofing servos.

Take some silicone and use the color of your choice and apply some to the mating parts of the case. also for more protection use a ballon or some saran wrap it.

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X-Factor
Old Style Electric RC10

New Site http://www.angelfire.com/pro/xfactor
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VIPER
Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2004 9:43 pm Reply with quote
R/C Guru R/C Guru
Joined: 12 Mar 2003 Posts: 3353 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Tips, Shock Oil Change

Requirements: Shock Oil and Saucer
Tweezers, Nut driver, Long nose pliers if you are replacing worn out parts

-Remove shock spring retainer and spring
-Pull shock shaft to full extension
-Uncap shock tube and pour oil into the saucer
-Do not disturb the rubber liner in the shock cap, it needs that trapped air behind it
-If the rubber in the cap is not bubbled out, remove it and re-seat it over
-Never install the shock cap without the rubber liner in it
-Push shock shaft all the way into the tube but not out of it to push more oil out
-Pull shock shaft back to full extension
-Fill shock tube with oil 1/8th of the way
-Push shock shaft up VERY slowly until all the oil goes under the damper disc
-Pull shock shaft to full extension again but VERY VERY slowly to avoid air bubbles
-Fill shock tube with oil slowly to top and cap it tightly


Please Do Not Reply! This Is A TIPS Thread Only.

_________________
I’m on the 8th year of my 2nd childhood and I REFUSE TO GROW-UP!
VIPER’s RIDES
http://globalservices.globalhobby.com/globalforum/viewtopic.php?p=15362#15362
http://www.offroadrc.ca/showthread.php?t=9040
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binaryterror
Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2004 5:42 am Reply with quote
Mr Negative Joined: 25 Mar 2003 Posts: 12873 Location: RC Pro Michigan State Series
Viper's Venom Speed meter installation for the X-Factor!

-Venom Speed/Odometer/Battery Monitor magnetic pick-up - CA Glued and Shrink Tubed on Rear Drive Cup
-Sensor is mounted on spare Diff Gears Shield Piece# 89 of P#149428 left of Diff/Axle Housing



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VIPER
Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2004 8:10 pm Reply with quote
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Joined: 12 Mar 2003 Posts: 3353 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Tips, R/C outside of North America

You will not have to dis-assemble the engine to transport your R/C, but it would be wise to clean the whole truck to get rid of the Nitro smell as if its new and dry-off that tank. Why? Simply because you would not want to be held back at customs. You will have to also DECLARE it as luggage to board the plane as you will not be allowed to hand carry it. It would also be wise to charge up you Rx pack and batteries on you Tx as you may be asked to demonstrate how your R/C works. Keep them all in one box.

If you really want to bring it with you anywhere in the world, you must first find out if you can purchase fuel in that area of the world regardless of brand. Fuels are not allowed in flight. They can only be transported by ship and land transport and that takes time.

In stating the above you will have to ship the fuel you now have to yourself or a family member of yours to wherever you may be going as the fuel distributor himself might not even be interested in shipping it out to your destination.


Please Do Not Reply! This Is A TIPS Thread Only.

_________________
I’m on the 8th year of my 2nd childhood and I REFUSE TO GROW-UP!
VIPER’s RIDES
http://globalservices.globalhobby.com/globalforum/viewtopic.php?p=15362#15362
http://www.offroadrc.ca/showthread.php?t=9040
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VIPER
Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2004 8:38 pm Reply with quote
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Joined: 12 Mar 2003 Posts: 3353 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Tips, 24/7 and 24/7 PRO operating temperature

130-150F idle all day
210-230F is very achievable
230-250F operating temperature
250-270F open some air vents buddy
270-300F richen it you're pushing your luck
300F and up, say good bye sooner than later...
Blown engine? Buy another and do it all over again!

Please Do Not Reply! This is A Tips Thread Only.

_________________
I’m on the 8th year of my 2nd childhood and I REFUSE TO GROW-UP!
VIPER’s RIDES
http://globalservices.globalhobby.com/globalforum/viewtopic.php?p=15362#15362
http://www.offroadrc.ca/showthread.php?t=9040
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VIPER
Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2004 9:00 pm Reply with quote
R/C Guru R/C Guru
Joined: 12 Mar 2003 Posts: 3353 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Tips, Shim Kit for Diffs and Pinions for the X-F, X-T, and Mammoth

X-Factor: 3 between Pinion and bearing and 2 on Ring Gear side of Diff and bearing.

X-Terminator: 2 between Pinion and bearing and 2 on Ring Gear side of Diff and bearing.

Mammoth: 2 between Pinion and bearing and 2 on Ring Gear side of Diff and bearing.

Her is your link.
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/148624.asp

Please Do Not Reply! This is A Tips Thread Only.

_________________
I’m on the 8th year of my 2nd childhood and I REFUSE TO GROW-UP!
VIPER’s RIDES
http://globalservices.globalhobby.com/globalforum/viewtopic.php?p=15362#15362
http://www.offroadrc.ca/showthread.php?t=9040
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

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